Hikes

Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Hike: Planning Stage

April 10, 2019 // by kawestberg// Leave a Comment

Several years ago when Catherine and I went on our first trip to the Grand Canyon we hiked 3 miles down Bright Angel Trail. As we staggered back up we kept running into this couple who were on the same break schedule as us. In an effort to prolong our break time we started chatting. Turned out they had hiked about 11 miles down into the canyon to stay at Phantom Ranch, one of the hardest National Park lodge reservations to snag. They went on to tell us about crazy people who hike from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to the South Rim (Rim to Rim hikers). This was an idea that I didn’t even know was possible. It was in that moment that we decided we were going to do that hike someday.

Well, someday turned into this summer. Yep, you heard me right. This summer Catherine and I are going to do the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike. Since it’s a little difficult to navigate and plan I thought I’d write a post each month until August (our hike month!) to give you all the details on the trip, the planning, and our training. First things first.

What is the Rim to Rim hike?

For me, it’s a bucket list hike. I know it’s not going to be easy, and quite frankly I’m pretty freaked out by it, but we have committed to doing it. One thing I’ve taken comfort in so far is the fact that it’s been completed by kids, young adults, people my age, and many elderly hikers. With planning and some training anyone can create a hike on these trails that will work for them.

How Long is Rim to Rim?

24 miles (one-way). I say one way because there are people even crazier than us who do the Rim to Rim to Rim hike. Yes, that’s right they go there and back again…sometimes in one day!

Level of Rim to Rim

Most hikers know that trails or long distance hikes come with a difficulty rating. Rim to Rim is rated as strenuous. Not too surprising, right?

Recommended Route

North Kaibab Trail to Bright Angel Trail
This is the first option for most hikers for several reasons. Starting at the North Rim means you hike downward for 6,000 feet, cross the canyon, and then climb out 4,500 feet. Looking at those numbers it seems obvious why most people go from North to South. In addition, Bright Angel Trail has several water stops, rest areas, bathrooms, a ranger station and some shade. This is super important because the climb out is going to be the toughest park of the whole hike.

Other Option – North Kaibab Trail to South Kaibab Trail
A second North to South option is to hike back up on the South Kaibab Trail. While this route is shorter than the Bright Angel Trail route it has no water stops and very little shade. I’ll take shade and water in exchange for a little longer hike.

How Long does Rim to Rim Take?

The answer to that my friend is completely up to you and how prepared you are. If you can’t be bothered with booking Phantom Ranch and patiently waiting for a backcountry permit, you can hike Rim to Rim in one day. As long as you’re in and out in one day none of that paperwork is necessary.

Catherine and I will be hiking Rim to Rim over 4 days. So from here on out I’ll be describing the trip we’ve planned.

Planning Our Rim to Rim Hike

Where to start:

If I were to tell someone how to go about planning this trip I would say start with the hardest reservation to get, Phantom Ranch. Reservations for Phantom Ranch open up 13 months in advance (yep!), so if you have a date in mind make sure you’re online or on the phone when the reservation lines open.

For more information on Phantom Ranch check out this post I wrote about all the Grand Canyon Lodges (scroll down to the bottom for Phantom Ranch). You can also check out the reservation page for Phantom Ranch to enter the lottery or you can call 888-29-PARKS.

Snagging this reservation can be tough, but if you have some flexibility in your dates that can really help. Truth be told I didn’t get my first choice date, but when I called there were two other days open so I grabbed one. Being flexible will help you a lot as you plan this trip.

Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon — **Planning the rest of the trip:**

With your Phantom Ranch reservation booked you can start building out the rest of your trip. If it’s possible financially, I highly encourage you to book your other hotel stays at the same time as your Phantom Ranch booking. This can get expensive pretty fast, but lodging options inside the Grand Canyon Village and at the North Rim fill up fast. If you want to stay at National Park properties book as soon as you can.

We knew that we wanted to start our hike from the North Rim. Since we’ve never been there we thought it would be fun to stay one night in the Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim. This was the next reservation we booked. This meant we had the night before we left arranged and one night in the canyon. We also went ahead and made a reservation at El Tovar for the night we made it out of the canyon. I’m pretty sure we will be clamboring for a shower by that point so I wanted a place right on the rim.

While it’s best to book everything at once I totally understand that that’s not possible for everyone. I had to spread out these bookings in order to afford them. I booked Phantom Ranch first, then a couple months later the North Rim and several months after that El Tovar. We were lucky to get all the dates and locations we wanted. All this is to say book early if possible, be flexible and you can spread out the expense if need be, it’s gonna be okay.

Backcountry permits:

I know it seems like all of the reservations should be done by now, but sadly they’re not. We wanted to spend several days down in the canyon and take our Rim to Rim hike slow (we’ll be averaging 6-7 miles per day). That might seem ridiculous to you, but we figured that we wanted to have lots of time to enjoy the trip, explore, take in the views and not be rushed. If you want to get things done faster you can completely skip this step.

BUT if you want to camp in the Grand Canyon you are going to need a backcountry permit. Applications for backcountry permits need to be submitted 4 months prior to the month you plan to hike. So, for example, we’re going to hike in August, so our application was due April 1st. For a list of application dates relative to your start date head over to the Backcountry Permit page and scroll down to the bottom.

I highly advise that you add a reminder to your calendar to alert you to apply for the backcountry permit. I thought I’d done this. Maybe I put in the wrong date or the information didn’t transfer over when I got a new phone. This meant that I faxed off our application for a backcountry permit on April 8th. Cue the sad Charlie Brown music. Yes, after all of my planning and reservation making I missed this crucial deadline. I’ll find out in the next couple weeks whether or not we got a permit. If you could keep everything crossed for us it would be most appreciated.

Summing Up

I think that’s enough information about Rim to Rim for now. I said at the beginning of this post that it’s an involved process. So far we’ve covered the length of the hike, the recommended route, my recommended order for making reservations and how to get a backcountry permit.

What’s next in the series

Training for a big hike
Gearing up for Rim to Rim
What do do right before you set out on your big adventure

Four Best Hikes in Zion National Park According to Outdoor Bloggers

March 21, 2019 // by kawestberg// 2 Comments

Zion National Park is located in red rock filled southern Utah. Inside the park you’ll find hiking trails that range from easy to strenuous, a historic lodge and cabins as well as wildlife and stunning rock formations. Like most national parks one trip just isn’t enough. If you’re short on time and wondering which trails to explore I’ve put together a few reviews from my fellow outdoor bloggers to get you started. I’ve organized the descriptions from easy to strenuous, so if you’re looking for a big adventure I encourage you to scroll down to get the information you’re looking for. I promise I don’t mind. Check out the best hikes in Zion below.

Best Easy Hike in Zion: Riverside Walk

Difficulty: easy (paved trail, wheelchair accessible)
Length: 2.2 miles
Elevation change: 57 feet

If you’re looking for a truly family friendly hike this is the best hike in Zion for you. To get there simply take the Zion Canyon Shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava, which is the last stop on the route.

The trail is smooth and paved, making it accessible to wheelchairs, those with mobility issues, strollers, dogs, bikes, and little feet. While a paved trail might seem boring, the park has installed several exhibits along the way to help you learn about the surrounding geology, wildlife and water features. As you walk you can enjoy views of the Virgin River, the canyon’s weeping walls and many hanging gardens.

Along the way you might start to notice wet footprints and people walking back to the start in soggy shoes and clothing. This will all become clearer as you approach the turn around point of the trail. The Riverside Walk leads to the beginning of The Narrows, a much more strenuous hike that’s covered later in this post.

Best Moderate Hike in Zion: Emerald Pools

Difficulty: easy-moderate
Length: 1-3.6 miles (depending on route)
Elevation change: 69-402 feet (depending on route)

This hike is highly dependent on the waterfall conditions, so check with the rangers before you go. If the water isn’t flowing, or only very light you might want to pass. This is a pretty hike but I just don’t feel it showcases the best of what Zion has to offer if the water isn’t flowing.

The lower trail is a nice gentile sandy path through the trees with the tall canyon walls above you. Birds flit about and bold squirrels dart around the trail.

You may hear the first pool before you reach it. Often there are one or more waterfalls trickling down the canyon wall. You can look from a distance or walk right under them, but watch your footing and your gear because the trail is usually wet and sometimes you have to walk through the mist.

The middle pool is a bit farther on, up above the overhang of the lower falls, which it feeds. It is often a good for place for catching reflections and peeking out at the valley. You will have to cross a spot that is often muddy to proceed to the final pool.

A bit more climbing up will take you to the final pool. This pool is at the foot of a sheer multicolored cliff and if you are very lucky there may be a waterfall here as well.

Things to consider:

Algae colors the pools and the pigment varies depending on the time of year.
Due to the accessibility this can be one of the more crowded hikes.

Patricia is the blogger behind Savvy Exploring. While working full time she blogs evenings and weekends, with website help from her husband and foot warming from their pup. Her goal is to show that, with a little planning, you don’t have to be rich or rough it to travel the world. Check out her itineraries page to start planning your next adventure.

Toughest Hike in Zion: Angels Landing

Difficulty: strenuous
Length: 5.4 miles
Elevation change: 1488 feet

The angels landing hike is probably one of the most iconic hikes in Zion National Park, and for a good reason. The angels landing hike is an out-and-back kind of hiking trail that is a steep uphill hike with breathtaking views of Zion National Park. In order to reach these views though, you must be willing to hike over 2.5 miles (5 miles roundtrip) and 1,800 feet up a series of steeply graded switchbacks, and along a scarier narrow trail toward the final half of the hike.

This narrow path to the top of Angels Landing is part of what makes this hike so classic, but if you are afraid of heights it will certainly make your heart flutter. The trail is also very popular, so not only must you learn to battle the fear of heights you might experience, but you must learn to share the trail with a continuous flow of hikers. There are chains and safeguards in place along the trail though, so that if you take your time, mind your step and remember to breathe, it could quite possibly become one of your favorite hikes of all time.

Pro Tip: If you are visiting Zion in the summer, this area can get very hot. This kind of heat can cause extreme heat exhaustion, which would be really dangerous to experience on this hike. If you want to do this hike in the summer, make sure to wake up very early in the morning to tackle it when the temperatures are cooler, and bring plenty of water. You’ll want to bring a backpack with you too so you can remain hands free while hiking the narrow portion of the trail.

Allison is the founder and primary voice behind She Dreams of Alpine, where she teaches others about backpacking, rock climbing, and how to truly step into their own unique courage and become confident, self-sufficient, and brave outdoor adventurers. She believes that each one of us has the potential to break through physical feats we once thought were impossible, and that outdoor adventure is the ultimate self-discovery tool.

Most Adventurous Hike in Zion: The Narrows

Difficulty: strenuous
Length: 9.4 miles
Elevation change: 334 feet

One of the most diverse hikes in Zion is the famous Narrows. The Narrows is a hike through the Virgin River. That’s right, you are hiking right through the river. On our Utah National Park road trip this hike was on the top of our bucket list because of its unique nature!

On this hike you are deep in a narrow canyon carved out by the river. The walls along the Virgin River reach 1000 feet into the sky. The canyon walls are nature’s art, the colors in the rock layers polished by centuries of erosion are amazing.

It is possible for any skill level to have a memorable hike in the Narrows. Hiking the full 16 miles is a challenging 2 day backcountry trip. For a low difficulty hike, start at the Temple of Sinawava. Here you will find children and seniors alike wadding in the water as they move up the canyon corridor. The deeper you go into the canyon the more challenging the hike. We happily hiked several miles and found the crowds really thinned out.

You will need special equipment to hike the Narrows. At minimum a walking stick is advised to keep you steady in the rapidly moving water. Thin water shoes or sandals don’t work very well here because of the sandy and rocky river bottom. You can rent special shoes in the town of Springdale, or use an old pair of shoes like we did. Any time other than the heat of summer dry suits are basic equipment when wading through the cold snow melt river.

The Narrows are closed to hiking if current speed is extremely high or if there is a risk of flash flooding. This is posted at the visitor center shuttle stop as well as at the Temple of Sinawava.

Ladona Stork loves to write about our US National Parks at Walking The Parks. She and her husband just finished a Utah National Parks Road Trip where they had a blast in the Narrows.

Looking for More Hikes in Zion National Park?

This post only lists four of the best hikes in Zion National Park. If you have more time to spend there are lots of other hikes to check out. For trail maps, descriptions and locations head over to the Zion National Park Plan Your Visit Page. There you can find more trails, currently conditions and closures and updates for your trip.

Joshua Tree: Black Rock Campground

March 15, 2019 // by kawestberg// Leave a Comment

Black Rock campground is located at the northwest corner of Joshua Tree National Park among one of the thickest Joshua Tree forests. This part of the park is not connected by road to the rest of the National Park, but don’t be deterred. You might not get to see lots of big cartoon-like rocks, but the surrounding mountains and sculptural Joshua Trees do more than make up for that fact.

How to Reserve a Campsite at Black Rock Campground

Like Death Valley National Park, Joshua Tree’s busy season is in the Fall, Winter and early Spring. Since both parks are in the desert you can imagine why this is the case. Reservations during the busy winter season at Black Rock Campground can be made using the National Park Service online reservation system Recreation.gov. In June-September 29 campsites are available on a first come first serve basis.

What to Expect at Black Rock Campground

On arrival make sure to check in at the visitor center. Inside you’ll find a small exhibit about the natural features of the park, a few souvenirs and a small selection of snacks and beverages. Please note that no firewood is for sale inside the park. You will need to pick that up on the way in if you’re planning on building a fire. The park also has very particular instructions when it comes to tent camping. Tents need to be no more than 100 feet away from the picnic table or fire ring. We made the mistake of placing our tent a bit further than 100 feet and were told so the next day by the ranger.

As mentioned above each campsite comes with a picnic table as well as a fire ring. The campground has 4 bathrooms with flush toilets and sinks but no showers. Drinkable water is also available in several areas of the campground. Additional amenities include dump stations, a small visitor center, an amphitheater, on-site staff and pretty good cell reception.

Hikes Around Black Rock Campground

If you decide to go hiking during your stay make sure to print out the Black Rock Canyon Hiking Trails Map before you go. They did not have paper copies when we were there so I took a picture of their enlarged map with my phone. This did the trick, but there were several times that I wished I had a paper map as well. During our visit we hiked the West Side Loop as well as the High View Nature Trail and part of the Short Loop trail.

While all of our hikes were gorgeous with tons of Joshua Trees, there was some trail damage thanks to unexpected rain and snow coupled with the government shut down. When hiking the West Side Loop we lost the trail 3 miles in and had to turn back. While this was disappointing I cannot stress the incredible natural beauty that this hike included. Unlike the main part of the park, Black Rock Canyon has fewer large boulders but many many Joshua Trees. It was more Joshua Trees in one place than I’ve ever seen.

I can’t remark on the entire West Side Loop hike, but the first 3 miles boasted several fantastic features. Namely the large number of Joshua Trees, views of all the surrounding mountains and total peace and quiet. During our hike we passed very few people and never felt like the trail was overcrowded. We hope to return someday to complete the entire loop.

Black Rock Campground Pros

While Black Rock Campground has 99 campsites, I didn’t feel like it was overcrowded or noisy. People generally kept to the quiet hours which made for an enjoyable stay.
You can make reservations during the winter months, and the cost of a tent site is only $20 per night.
There are several hiking trails around the campground to explore that for the most part were well maintained.
You get to camp surrounded by Joshua Trees which is pretty amazing and magical!
The campground is close to civilization if you need to get something.

Black Rock Campground Cons

Black Rock Campground isn’t directly connected by a road to the main part of the park. If you want to explore there you need to drive about 30 minutes to the West Entrance.
If you’re hoping to see lots of big boulders this isn’t the campsite for you, consider camping inside the main part of the park.

Perfect 7 Day Road Trip Itinerary : Grand Canyon Plus Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon

December 5, 2018 // by kawestberg// Leave a Comment

Planning a big trip to the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park isn’t easy. There’s a lot of distance to cover and you want to make sure you’ve included enough time in each place.

Lucky for you Catherine and I have already road tested this trip and can say from experience that’s it’s amazing. If you’re only interested in the Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon portion of this itinerary scroll down to Day 4.

Day 1: Arrive in Sky Harbor Airport, Phoenix, AZ

Depending on where you’re coming from this part of the trip can be variable. When Catherine and I made this trip we were coming from Massachusetts so we had a long flight to Arizona. We arrived in the evening and immediately picked up our rental car and drove to Flagstaff, AZ. This drive takes roughly 2hr. 15min. depending on time of day and traffic.

We knew we wanted to see Flagstaff, but instead of doing that on the way to Grand Canyon (we were WAY too excited to wait) we just arrived, hit the hay and then headed out the next morning. I’ll talk more about our Flagstaff finds on Day 7.

Day 2: Drive from Flagstaff, AZ to Grand Canyon National Park South Rim Village

The drive from Flagstaff to Grand Canyon Village takes about 1hr. 20min. Along the way you’ll see lots of cactus, red rock, desert scrub and gorgeous weather worn rock structures.

When you enter the park you’ll have a chance to purchase a National Parks Annual Pass from $0-$80 depending on the type of pass you purchase. Since this itinerary includes three National Parks I HIGHLY recommend purchasing the pass on your way in.

If you were to pay to enter each park your entry fees would start at $72 and increase depending on the number of people you’re road tripping with. Buying the pass can save you a lot of money and it’s good at all the National Parks in America so you’re set for the year. BUY THE PASS.

Where to Stay at Grand Canyon:

For those of you who have been following Indoorsy Camper you know I’m a BIG fan of the National Park Lodges. Staying inside the park has its perks, namely you don’t have to wait in the entry lines each day and you get to see the canyon pretty much 24/7 while you’re there.

To learn everything you need to know about the Grand Canyon lodges check out my post: Ultimate Guide to Grand Canyon National Park Lodging at the South Rim.

Things to Do on Your First Day at the Grand Canyon:

On our way to Grand Canyon we stopped at a grocery store to stock up on picnic supplies. When we arrived we ate our lunch rim side, saving us a little money (things get expensive inside the park) and allowing us to take in the view while we ate. That first walk to the edge is unbelievable, and to be honest even in my pictures I often think the whole thing looks like a Hollywood backdrop.

Once you’ve been fed and watered check out the Rim Trail. It’s a 13 mile trail that’s mostly paved, making it family as well as handicap friendly. The trail includes several vistas and overlooks as well as exhibits and gift shops. It’s a great way to see the canyon from the top and a perfect way to stretch your legs after a drive.

That first night we decided to eat a light dinner in the El Tovar bar. We deserved a drink and some nachoes after our drive and they were excellent.

Day 3: Grand Canyon National Park

Day three is all about exploring the many trails at the Grand Canyon. We decided to go big and opted for Bright Angel Trail, a 6-mile trail that descends 3,740 feet inside the canyon. We made it down as far as 3 Mile Resthouse and then turned back for the climb back out.

A word of warning. Going down is quick and easy, but it takes about twice as long to hike out. Make sure you bring lots of water, trekking poles if you need extra support and keep reminding yourself of the climb. It’s tempting to keep going down and down and down, but coming out will take infinity more work.

If Bright Angel isn’t for you check out this complete list of day hikes at the Grand Canyon.

After our big hike down and back out we were pretty beat so we went back to our room, cleaned up and ate dinner.

Day 4: More Grand Canyon Exploring + Driving to Zion National Park

Our last morning we got up in time to see the sunrise over the canyon, something I would highly recommend. The color change from blues and purples to warm oranges and yellows was striking and although I took pictures, none of them seem to have truly captured it.

After the sunrise show head into the El Tovar dining room for breakfast (it’s the cheapest meal they serve) and if you’re lucky they’ll seat you beside the windows so you can gaze out on the canyon as you sip coffee and butter your toast.

The next leg of the trip is the drive from Grand Canyon to Zion National Park. This leg of the drive takes about 3hr. 30min. We spent a little more time taking in the canyon and then headed out so we would have enough time to fit in a short hike in Zion before dark.

Where to Stay at Zion National Park:

Again, I recommend staying inside the park if possible, especially at Zion. Unlike Grand Canyon, Zion closes to the public in the evening. This means that reentry can be a long process, but if you stay inside the park there’s no waiting.

Zion Lodge accommodations come in several types; cabins, hotel rooms, suites and accessible rooms. We opted for a cabin because a friend of our highly recommended this option. Each cabin comes with two double beds, a log fireplace, private porch and full bath. I have to say the cabin in Zion might have been my favorite place we stayed during our entire trip. More information on Zion Lodge can be found here.

Hikes in Zion National Park:

Since our first day in Zion was short we opted to hike the Lower Emerald Pool trail. At 1.2 miles it was the perfect hike to get the lay of the land, see several waterfalls and get us back to the lodge in time for dinner.

If you’re looking for a family or more accessible hike try the Pa’rus Trail. This trail follows a paved route from the South Campground to Canyon Junction. If you want more tail options check out the full list of Zion National Park trails.

Day 5: Zion National Park Hikes + Drive from Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon

The drive from Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon is only 1hr. 20min. Since we knew the drive was short we decided to spend the day in Zion and hike The Narrows. Roughly 60% of this hike is spent wading or walking in the river. You can rent water gear from Zion Adventure Company if it’s cold when you go. We didn’t rent gear when we hiked The Narrows, but if I were to do it again I would want to have neoprene socks and hiking poles.

There are many other trail options if you’re not interested in getting wet. As of writing this post the Kayenta Trail and Upper Emerald Pools Trail and Hidden Canyon Trail are all closed due to flood damage and rock fall. Click here to see a list of Zion day hikes.

After our wet excursion we changed our shoes and pants and then got in the car for the short drive to Bryce Canyon.

Where to Stay in Bryce Canyon National Park:

Once again I’m going to sing the praises of staying inside the park. Although I will admit we stayed outside the park in Bryce mostly because our budget couldn’t handle another lodge reservation. Bryce Lodge offers three types of accommodation; Western Cabins, Sunrise & Sunset Motel Rooms and Guest Suites. Visit the Bryce Canyon Lodging and Cabin Rental page for more information.

Our first hike in Bryce Canyon was the Rim Trail, a 5.5 mile paved trail that extends from Fairyland Point to Bryce Point. If you have more time you can always extend your hike by heading down into the canyon. Here’s a link to the full list of Bryce Canyon National Park trails.

Day 6: Explore Bryce Canyon + Stop at Horseshoe Bend + Drive to Flagstaff

On our second day in Bryce Canyon we managed to link several of the trails together so we could see a good portion of the canyon. If you have the time make sure you look out for Queens Garden where you will see a rock formation in the shape of Queen Victoria.

Other hikes we enjoyed included the Navajo Trail where you get to spend time in a slot canyon where giant Douglas Fir Trees are reaching for the sky. As well as the Peek-A-Boo Loop which takes you through the heart of the Bryce Amphitheater.

Rather than drive from Bryce Canyon all the way back to Flagstaff in one go we opted for a scenic stop at Horseshoe Bend. Located a 2hr. 40min. drive from Bryce Canyon, Horseshoe Bend is a horseshoe shaped meander in the Colorado River. After a 3/4 hike from US Route 89 you will arrive to a gorgeous view of the river from above.

While the hike is short keep in mind that it’s very exposed and on sandy ground, making it a little harder than you would think. Make sure to bring your camera and take you time checking out the bend from multiple viewpoints.

After that scenic stop we carried on the remaining 2hr. 10min. drive to Flagstaff where we stayed for the night.

Day 7: Explore Flagstaff + Drive to Sky Harbor Airport, Phoenix, AZ

When we booked our flights back to the east coast from Phoenix we made sure to choose an evening flight. This gave us time to explore Flagstaff and make the drive back to Sky Harbor (2hr. 15min.).

Flagstaff has a thriving art and culture scene with endless artisan shops to wander in and out of all day. Mixed in you will find rock shops, gear stores and plenty of Southwest charm.

If you need a coffee break head to Macy’s European Coffee House. Macy’s has been around for over 30 years and is an all vegetarian restaurant. I’ll just say that the coffee was excellent and so were the pastries.

If you’re looking for a great breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner spot head to MartAnne’s Cafe (pictured above). It’s southwest and Mexican fare with excellent margaritas, chips, salsa and guac. With our bellies happy and full we packed up the rental car one last time and drove to Phoenix.

Whether you choose to follow this seven day itinerary or use it as a jumping off point one thing is for sure, you need to do the Zion, Bryce, Grand Canyon loop. Arizona and Utah are full of incredible national parks and these are only the beginning.

For us our Grand Canyon, Bryce, Zion road trip was a must see bucket list item. What I didn’t expect is that we would love it so much we would head back to Utah to check out Arches and start planning our Rim to Rim hike (fast approaching in 2019)!

If you decide to take this trip template and run with it let me know. Or if you’ve figured out other great sites or routes to take share them in the comments.

6 Delightful Pasadena Hikes to Get You Outdoors

November 27, 2018 // by kawestberg// Leave a Comment

It’s that time of year in Pasadena where the bleachers start getting assembled in preparation for the Rose Parade. Since moving here three years ago I’ve been mesmerized by how early this process starts…I had NO idea!

Our first year here Catherine and I took part in the float assembly process (it’s largely done by volunteers). To this day it’s still one of the highlights of our time here. I mean look at that dragon!

Lots of people travel around the holidays, particularly at Christmas, but here in Pasadena things really start hotting up as New Year’s Day gets closer. Which is why it’s the perfect time to take advantage of these six Pasadena hikes. Well, let me be more clear, some of them are technically Altadena hikes. But they’re close enough for any Pasadena visitor or resident to take advantage of.

Rose Bowl Trail Loop

Hike Length: 3.1 miles
Surface: Pavement/areas of grass or sandy trail if desired
Hike type: loop

While this is not my favorite Pasadena hike, I’ve listed it here for several reasons. First of all if you’re visiting to see the Rose Parade or the Rose Bowl it will give you a chance to tour the tents where the parade floats are being put together. If you’re feeling crafty there’s even a chance that you could sign-up as a volunteer and get to work on one of the floats (I highly recommend).

The Rose Bowl loop trail literally takes you around the Rose Bowl itself as well as past the Brookside Golf Course & Country Club. The trail is dog friendly so long as they stay on leash. There are several grassy areas to play catch, do some warm-ups or stretch before you start your walk. If you’re into road biking there is also a well used bicycle lane.

If you’re not into “hiking” on a paved road make sure to keep an eye out for the dirt trails that run along the roadside. These give you a little more freedom to walk about and help you feel a little closer to nature.

Arlington Garden

Hike Length: variable
Surface: Compressed earth/rock/grass
Hike type: many loops and a maze

If you’re visiting Pasadena and need a short, tame family hike or even a place to take a picnic I highly recommend Arlington Garden. Situated on a 3 acre plot of land, Arlington Garden is a non-profit native plant refuge. The garden is maintained with the help of many volunteers and has plenty of little nooks and crannies for kids and adults to explore.

Arroyo Seco Trail

Hike Length: 3 mi.
Surface: Some paved/ mostly compressed earth
Hike type: loop

If you’re looking to check off a few sites as well as get in a walk the Arroyo Seco Trail could be the answer. This gentle, mostly flat pathway begins near the San Pascual Stables and follows along the Arroyo Seco river.

As you follow the clearly marked trail you will be able to see the arches of the Colorado Street Bridge above you which you might recognize from the movie La La Land. As you make your way around the loop you’ll pass a duck pond as well as an archery range.

Millard Canyon

Hike Length: 2.6 mi.
Surface: Compressed earth
Hike type: out and back

Go slightly north of Pasadena and you will arrive at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains in Altadena. There are many Altadena hiking trails to choose from and I will outline several more in this list of hikes near Pasadena.

Millard Canyon is a perfect family hike for kids and adults of all ages. After passing the Millard campground (a first come first serve campground) you will arrive at the trailhead. This trail has some elevation change, but is generally rated as an easy to moderate trail.

You will cross the stream several times along your way, but unless you hike after a huge rain storm it is highly unlikely that you will get wet. As you get closer to the waterfall you might start to hear the falls depending on what time of year you hike. The picture above was taken in the spring after a wet winter in SoCal. In the summer the falls slows down to a trickle, but there is still water flowing and fun to be had in the small pool it creates.

Eaton Canyon Falls

Hike Length: 1.9 mi.
Surface: Compressed earth
Hike type: out and back

This hike is very suitable for indoorsy camper types. It’s fairly flat, has a little bit of adventure in the form of rock hopping and comes to an end at a waterfall. Eaton Canyon is a great family hike, but can be a little crowded at the weekend so come prepared to look for parking. Like Millard Canyon, Eaton is so close to Pasadena it’s worth crossing over into Altadena to spend some time in the San Gabriels.

Before you head off on the trail make sure to check out the visitor center to get a glimpse of the wildlife you should be on the lookout for along the way. The trail crosses the river a couple times and you might even have a chance to try out your bouldering skills if you’re brave. Before you turn around to head back you will come to Eaton Canyon Falls. Like Millard the amount of water you see will depend on the season you venture into the canyon, but there’s pretty much always some water flowing.

Switzer Falls

Hike Length: 3.6 mi.
Surface: Compressed earth
Hike type: out and back

As if I haven’t included enough waterfall hikes on this list, here’s one more. Switzer Falls is a very popular and approachable family hike. Like Eaton Canyon, Switzer can be fairly crowded on the weekend. Don’t be deterred, there are several overflow parking lots. Keep driving around and you’ll find a parking spot.

On your way to the trail you pass through a picnic area and a paved trail. As you make your way towards the two-tier falls you will see the old foundations of a mountain resort called ‘Switzer-land’ that is long gone. After several switch backs you will begin to descend into the canyon until you reach the base of the falls. Depending on the season you might be able to wade into a pool above the first tier to cool off.

Backpacking for Beginners: My First Official Backpacking Trip

October 11, 2018 // by kawestberg// 2 Comments

I’m sitting on the floor of our tiny apartment using all of my effort to will my sleeping bag to be smaller…and I’m actually breaking a sweat. The girl at REI showed me how to put my sleeping bag at the bottom of the pack and it’s supposed to go horizontally…not vertically. At present my sleeping bag is too wide and the bottom compartment of my backpack is too narrow. Why is it that this scenario reminds me of so many visits to the dressing room at Nordstrom? Backpacking for beginners…am I right?!

With great force, full utilization of the sleeping bag compression straps and some extra help from Catherine we managed to wedge the bag in place. *I actually Googled “straps that compress a sleeping bag” and Google told me those are called compression straps. This is the level of un-informedness we’re dealing with. Again, beginner backpacker over here.

I had the sleeping bag in, now I just needed to get the tent and fly into my pack. Once in place all the other niceties I wanted to bring would comfortably slot into the little crevasses left in the cavernous space that was my backpack. Why is it that I suddenly have the feeling that creepy Facebook is going to show me an ad for a t-shirt that says “NOPE”.

Once again creepy Facebook hits it on the nose. Turns out that after you jam in a sleeping bag, 3-person tent with fly and a sleeping pad you have surprisingly little space left. And so the reconsidering began. In my mind I had already committed to bringing very little on this trip, but after reconsidering it turns out I didn’t need that extra t-shirt, clean pants for the hike out or quite so many snacks. After all, it was just ONE night…after which we would be car camping in luxurious Crystal Cove and we are believers in putting as much stuff in the car as you want.

Backpacking for Beginners Packing List:

Sleeping bag (I LOVE my Nemo bag…but it turns out it’s kinda big. Which I suppose is good because I am too)
Tent (Some might say we should have a 2-person tent to cut down the weight and give me more space. To this I say, “We will not buy another tent!)
Sleeping pad
Jammas, jams, jammers, pj’s…clean clothes to sleep in
T-shirt
Fleece
Socks
Underwear
Toiletries (body wipes, toothbrush, toothpaste, contact solution, deodorant)
Very lesbian looking sandals (Blue croc-like material Birkenstocks. They are not at all stylish, BUT they are perfect for camping.)
First aid kit
Water bladder with 2 liters of water
1 additional water bottle (Can you tell I’m worried about water?)
Solar panel phone charger (This was brought purely to test it out…it works.)
Snacks (Have you tried Lorissa’s Kitchen chicken jerky? What about Bobo’s Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Oat Bites? Both are very tasty.)

The simple act of packing up my backpack caused me to freak out. I might mention here that Catherine put everything into her pack effortlessly with zero sweating, grunting or emergency YouTube video watching.

In an effort to work our way up to actual backpacking I booked one night of “primitive camping” at Crystal Cove State Park. I considered this our very mini low risk first shot at beginner backpacking. If it went horribly wrong, we were just a few short miles away from civilization. After that first night of truly roughing it we had two nights booked in the civilized campground at the edge of the bluffs overlooking the ocean. And so we packed our hatchback with our backpacks plus a million other things for our snooty seaside camping and set off. A short hour long drive later we pulled up to the ranger check-in booth, me a little anxious and Catherine most likely cool as a cucumber.

I handed a very nice semi-retired gentleman our booking and he walked back to the little hut he was station in. Over the sound of our car engine and the waves crashing I could hear his conversation with a co-worker. From what I could hear there were no reservations that night for the primitive campsites…except we had a printout with our name, a payment and the correct date. After conferring with one another and studying the print out they told us to pull forward and wait for their supervisor to return.

This was a somewhat worrisome way to start this first backpacking adventure. What made it more worrisome was the fact that the semi-retired gentleman told us that we were brave for hiking in and camping there. Thanks for that.

After waiting a few minutes their supervisor whizzed by on his ATV and gave us the green light to proceed to our no frills campsite. We parked the car, placed our permit in the window, heaved on our packs and began our 3-mile hike in.

When I booked our site at Lower Moro campground I picked it because it was the shortest hike. Catherine and I spent much of the spring and early summer building strength and endurance by hiking most weekends, but summer in southern California makes for tough hiking and to be honest we hadn’t gone out in more than a month. To say we were a little out of practice and more importantly out of shape would be an understatement. This coupled with the additional 28 pounds on our backs made for a slow and sweaty climb.

There are two possible routes to hike into Lower Moro. The first takes you straight up along a relentless ridge line the other brings together three trails that are rated easy, difficult and strenuous to give you a slightly easier ascent. Knowing our lack of stamina we chose to take the easier route up and enjoy the ridge line on our way down the next day.

It didn’t take long for the heavy breathing to kick in resulting in many breaks of heaving and water drinking. Turns out hiking with 28 pounds on your back is harder than hiking with two cans of soup for extra weight in your day pack, who knew?

To distract myself from the heavy breathing I made sure to take plenty of pictures with my “old school” DSLR that I decided to bring along. I call it old school because while it does have a ridiculously small screen at the back to review your shot, it doesn’t have live view, so you need to actually bring the camera to your face and look through it to take a picture. I love this.

What I did not love or anticipate was that the camera strap would constantly rub on my neck creating a line of irritation, or that if I didn’t hold the camera as I walked it would bounce back and forth, further irritating my neck and my bruising the girls. Something to think about if you’re going to bring a heavier camera on your first backpacking trip.

As we worked our way up the many switchbacks we were able to see the canyon ahead of us filled with desert plants including grasses, cactus, flowers, some trees and general scrub. My second mistake of the hike was the decision to squat down low in order to get a close-up shot of a particularly spiky cactus that was being hit by the light just perfectly. As it turns out squatting down low while wearing a 28 lbs. backpack is not as easy as your run of the mill squat. All that extra weight is just dying to push you further forward. I came very close to face planting on a cactus. But look at that shot…those spikes would have been brutal.

I haven’t mentioned the weather yet, but let me tell you that it was hot. Not excruciating, but as we were pretty much always in full sun it was quite warm. I often wear all black while hiking. This isn’t because I’m goth or too cool for bright colors, I LOVE bright colors and show tunes for that matter.

I wear black while hiking because I’m a very sweaty person. I’ve had my head erupt in sweat for no apparent reason. I once had a personal trainer comment on the amount of sweat I was producing, using the phrase “sweating bullets” and as he said it a bead of said sweat shot down my face and landed on his shoe. So yeah, I’m sweaty.

You know what happens when a sweaty person wears say a pair of lovely blue hiking pants on a hot day? There is a moment when it starts to look like they’ve wet their pants, but as I (I mean they) have a fully functioning bladder that’s not the case. The wet spot in the crotchal region….it’s sweat. And it ain’t pretty. This leads me to the next thing I learned on my first backpacking trip and that’s to stick to tradition and wear black because you can’t see sweat stains as well when you wear black.

By the time we reached our campground sunset was upon us. Campsites in Lower Moro are first come first serve and while the ranger said there were no reservations for that night there was one tent already pitched and more to come. We did a quick walk around to figure out which site looked best to us, in this case we were looking for a little morning shade, a good view and a little distance from the trail and the pit toilet.

We found our spot and got our tent up before dark. As the sun set and the mist started to descend we ate our dinner of potato salad with green beans and tomatoes, spicy tuna pouches and Ritz crackers. It was delicious! Dessert was hot chocolate and Nutella & Go Hazelnut Spread and Breadsticks. We may have been roughing it, but Nutella is always in order.

It felt pretty amazing to be so far away from civilization surrounded by the sea and coastal hills. With darkness setting in, increasing condensation on everything and a no fire policy we decided to head into our tent and turn in for the night.

After struggling to get out of our wet clothes, attempting to extinguish the stink coming from us with wet wipes and putting on fresh pj’s we laid down and realized that up in these hills we had the perfect cell phone reception….better than our own house. And thus we both proceeded to scroll through Instagram until we were ready to go to sleep. Ridiculous but true.

Lessons learned on my beginner backpacking trip:

Your sleeping bag and tent take up nearly all of your pack.
Seemingly nice semi-retired rangers do not offer the best encouragement for first time backpackers.
Cameras are heavy, and their ability to chafe your skin is great.
Squatting while carrying a full pack is ill advised.
People with a history of serious sweating should wear BLACK not blue hiking pants.
Take a little time to scope out the best spot once you reach the campground.
It’s hard to take your wet hiking clothes off while laying down in a tent.
It’s harder to give yourself a “wet wipe bath” while laying down in a tent.
Cell phone service in the middle of nowhere can be pretty good…better than in your own house.

Save Money: The Hiking Gear Can Wait

July 17, 2018 // by kawestberg// Leave a Comment

Who doesn’t love a trip to REI? When I walk in the store I get this invincible, adventurous, go out and get’em feelin that makes me want to do crazy things like hike the PCT or climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. First they seduce you with a pitched tent right at the door then the rest of the store bamboozles you into purchasing a new water filtration system, special breathable underwear or an artisanal bag of dehydrated camp food.

Don’t get me wrong I LOVE going there…but my bank account lets out a tiny scream when I enter the store. The thing that keeps bringing me back again and again is the knowledgeable staff. During my most recent visit I eavesdropped on an associate teaching a family about camp stoves. Then I tried on some hiking pants. And I rounded things out with a solid lesson on the various types of water filters and purification systems they currently sell. Every time I walk out of the store I feel a tiny bit smarter.

As I made my way to the register I had the pleasure of being helped by a gentleman who we’ll call Mark. As Mark was scanning my purchases he asked me if I had a trip coming up. I said I was working up to backpacking, but wasn’t quite sure where my first trip would take me yet.

In response he leaned in and whispered, “don’t tell anyone, but I’ve actually never been hiking, camping or backpacking”.

We laughed about it and then he let me know my total. My face must have given away my shock because he followed his comment up by saying that he hasn’t gone because getting the gear is so expensive.

This comment struck me as true and really sad.

If I could say one thing to the people who aren’t getting outside because of cost I would say, start small and just go. You don’t need special shoes, high-tech clothing or a fancy pair of trekking poles to hike. All of that gear can wait.

The first step to getting outside is to GO OUTSIDE. The outdoors are all around us. There’s no need to drive for hours to a national or state park to be outdoors. Take a walk around your neighborhood or in a city park. Even when you live in a densely populated urban area you can get outside.

The key is to open your mind to what “outside” means. If you want to be technical about it, outside is simply a space beyond an enclosure. The moment you step out of your house, your car, work or school you are in the outdoors. Once you start paying greater attention to the world around you and you will start to notice new pathways, plants, bugs and animals.

This is pretty much how I started getting outside. Before moving to California I lived in Massachusetts. Back then I was mostly a gym rat, but occasionally on a crisp fall day I would take a walk. These walks were mostly around the streets near my apartment….I wouldn’t want to stray too far, I was indoorsy, what if I got lost?! So I walked. I slowly increased my distance. I enjoyed looking at all of the New England houses (as someone who grew up in Texas the colonials and Cape Cods were new and exciting). I listened to the leaves blow in the wind and the birds singing. Yes, there were car noises, lawn mowers and the occasional leaf blower, but I enjoyed my time outside.

Once I’d exhausted all of my nearby streets I asked a coworker about local trails and she mentioned one just steps from my house. It was a pretty tame loop that amounted to roughly 3 miles from door to door. I started walking that loop in my sneakers and gym wear. No new equipment necessary. I jumped when twigs cracked, moved away from rustling bushes, and occasionally cursed at the bugs who refused to fly anywhere but in front of my face. I bought bug repellent. And I sprayed it on my hat.

Over the next several years I started hiking more. I got a little braver and a lot stronger. I bought a backpack and went on longer hikes. I made travel plans and visited state and national parks. Now I hike several times a month, but until a few weeks ago I didn’t even own a proper pair of hiking shoes. And so I’ll say it again, all of the gear can wait. I’m a testament to this fact. I hiked for many years in my runners, jeans and a t-shirt. I hiked with my phone in my pocket and my water bottle in hand. And it was great!

I got to go outside, appreciate nature, figure out how much I loved it and start saving for the gear I needed and the trips I was dreaming about. You don’t need to go broke to go outside, you just need to open your eyes to the beauty and be brave enough to start a new adventure.

Lesbian couple sitting on edge of Grand Canyon — Catherine and I on our dream trip to The Grand Canyon

Nature Calling On Line One

June 26, 2018 // by kawestberg// 2 Comments

I have a confession to make.

I’ve never peed outside. (well, at least not until last weekend)

[pausing for shaking heads and most likely eye-rolls]

I didn’t call this blog “Indoorsy Camper” because I like roughin’ it. I called it “Indoorsy Camper” because I like to cook lamb tagine (recipe from Melissa Clark….you need to make it!) in my Instant Pot and bring the leftovers on my camping trip where I snuggle up in my cozy sleeping bag and read all the books.

My current read is Wild by Cheryl Strayed, which I’m sure everyone else on the planet has already read. I’m one of those people who will sometimes jump on the bandwagon (i.e. avocado toast) and other times hold off while the rest of the world basks in the glories of Harry Potter. Don’t worry I rectified that a long time ago, and truth be told I watch the movies WAY too often.

If Wild has done one thing for me it’s completely freak me out! Cheryl has managed to describe in detail all of the many things my neurotic mind fixates on while I’m trying to go to sleep.

Bears
Rattle snakes
Using a shovel called “U-Dig-It” to drop a deuce outside
Toe nails turning black and falling off
Needing to learn how to use an ice axe
Using an ice axe
Jamming a sponge up your lady bits….then pulling it out, squeezing it and reinstalling (Too much detail? Yea, it was for me too!)
Watching my hiking boot fall off the edge of a mountain….I didn’t even have that fear until this book!

Needless to say I’m enjoying the book….but I’m conflicted.

The whole peeing outside thing came up earlier in the week and Catherine advised me to practice….in the shower. WHICH I DID NOT DO.

Cue Seinfeld discussion: “It’s all pipes! What’s the difference?!”

For the record I side with Jerry and Elaine.

In my freaked out state I started looking into purchasing a Go Girl. Which if you didn’t know is basically a piece of plastic that funnels your pee so you can do it standing up….like a man…..if a man had a funnel he held to pee and then had to figure out what to do with the urine soaked funnel after he was done. So that solution was out.

This conversation happened early in the week, so I of course decided to not think about this issue anymore. When in doubt do nothing and wait for the problem to arise naturally.

I’ve never gone backpacking or even on a hike that was long enough to require an al fresco pit stop…..until last weekend. Since the weather here in SoCal was surprisingly mild we decided to go big with our hike and head for the Bridge to Nowhere (yes, that’s an actual place). I’ll talk more about the actual hike itself later, but for now let’s stay focused on the wizz.

We hiked 5 or so miles to the bridge. It was amazing and gorgeous and everything I hoped it would be. Then we had to head the 5 miles back….and my water reservoir was surprisingly low. Catherine (being the outdoorsy one in this duo) proclaimed that she needed a wee stop. We walked a little ways away from the bridge and found a more secluded spot by some rocks.

Down she went and before I knew what was happening she was done. DONE. Seconds. It took seconds!

Between the sound of the water flowing under the bridge, my receding reservoir and actual peeing happening near me I started to feel a little urge to go to the bathroom.

Was this going to happen? Could I pee in the great outdoors?

Turns out I can.

And I did.

So this explanation is for all the indoorsy hikers out there who are afraid to pee outside (which to be clear, I’m still scared of doing it).

How to pee outside like a champ

Find a secluded spot. It’s no fun being interrupted by a fellow hiker while you’re mid-stream. Look at the surrounding foliage (don’t want any pokies coming at you or heaven forbid a poison ivy leaf), make sure you have enough room to get down, and if it’s windy plan accordingly.
Designate a lookout. This isn’t always possible, but if you’re hiking with friends why not recruit them to help.
Get low. The lower down you can squat the better, we want to avoid the dreaded splash-back (nobody wants their own urine to splash all over their clothing). Now, pull down those pants and bring all the fabric towards the front of your body. This will prevent that splash-back problem and as an added bonus acts as a privacy screen.
Go. You’re in your spot, your lookout is in place, your squatting like a champ so get it over with. I recognize this might not be easy…I know I had a moment of bashful bladder, but I forged ahead. You can too.
Regroup. Pull up your britches and start your celebratory “I Peed in the Wilderness!!!!!” dance!

And there you have it. It’s done. I did it. And so can you.